Planting Fruit Trees

A fruit tree is a long-term choice. Before digging, check that its mature size, pollination needs and training method fit your garden, and that you can water it while it establishes.

By Simon Adams · Updated 25 October 2026

Order the right tree, not just the variety

The fruit variety determines much of what you harvest; the rootstock strongly influences the tree’s vigour and eventual size. Ask for both names. “Dwarf” on its own is not enough information to plan spacing or support.

For example, RHS guidance gives an apple on M9 rootstock a typical bush height of about 1.8–2.4m and permanent staking. An apple on MM106 is much larger, around 3–4m high as a bush. These are examples, not fixed sizes for every site: soil, variety and training matter. Get spacing recommendations for your particular tree.

Check pollination before buying

Some varieties set fruit on their own; others need a compatible different variety with overlapping flowering. Two trees with the same variety name do not provide that different partner. Ask the nursery to confirm a suitable combination, including whether either variety is an ineffective pollen provider, such as a triploid apple.

Draw the mature canopy and any supporting wires on your garden plan. Leave space for paths, picking and nearby plants rather than measuring only the width of the young tree’s pot.

Choose a suitable planting window

In the UK, autumn to spring is normally the useful window, provided ground is neither frozen nor waterlogged. Bare-root trees must be handled while dormant. Container-grown trees offer more flexibility, but planting in hot, dry weather adds pressure to the watering routine. Adjust to local European conditions rather than copying a UK date.

Keep bare roots covered and protected from drying, frost and waterlogging while waiting. Plant promptly; if delayed, follow the supplier’s temporary storage or heeling-in advice.

Set the roots and trunk at the right level

Water a container tree thoroughly before planting and gently loosen congested roots. Make a hole broad enough for roots to spread, without digging unnecessarily deep. The point where roots meet the trunk should be level with the surrounding soil; check across the hole with a straight cane.

Keep the graft union—the join between fruit variety and rootstock—above soil level. Refill around the roots with excavated soil and firm carefully. Do not put fertiliser or a deep pocket of compost in the bottom of the hole. Install the support appropriate to the rootstock and training form without damaging roots.

Make aftercare part of planting

Water thoroughly and mulch the surface, leaving a clear gap around the trunk. Check moisture around the rootball during dry weather: a damp-looking surface can conceal dry roots. Keep weeds and grass away from the establishing tree so they do not compete for water.

Check ties and guards as the trunk expands. Note the variety, rootstock, planting date and supplier’s training instructions. Pruning depends on the fruit and form; avoid giving every newly planted tree the same cut. If growth struggles, check moisture, drainage and planting depth before adding feed.